Irit Dulman  Eco-Dyeing Workshops

Students supply list                    

It will take you a while to pull the materials together.  Read this now.

Fabrics:  All fabrics and scarves must be scoured and divided to two categories according to the list attached. One of the categories is only scoured fabrics with no mordant and the second category is mordanted fabrics. the mordant need to be made by you before you come to the workshop. Instructions will be provided for you in advance in a document entitled ‘Mordant recipes for silk and cellulose’.   All fabrics must have your name on them.  Use only a Sharpie permanent marker writing on Tyvek, and attaching with stainless steel pin.   In order to maximize your learning experience, we recommend that you bring a variety of fabrics in smaller amounts (as noted below), rather than many large pieces of yardage. 

  • - Varieties of silk could include silk charmeuse, silk dupioni, silk jersey knit, silk satin, crepe de chine and chiffon are highly recommended.
     
  • - Varieties of cellulose could include 100% cotton, rayon, bamboo, linen, or some combination of cellulose blends.
  • - All pieces of fabrics must have your name on it with tyvex ID and if the fabric is mordanted or not.

 

5 days’ class - fabrics

Category 1 - not mordanted fabrics:
1. Silk not mordanted

  • 5 silk scarves in a variety of silk weaves, around 8x54 inches to 11x60 inches.
  • 3 x 2 yards or less - in size or quantity.

2. cellulose not mordanted

  • 5 cellulose scarves, around 8x54 inches to 11x60 inches.
  • 3 x 2 yards or less - in size or quantity.
  • 1 T-shirt

3. wool

  • 3 yards or less of wool such as wool jersey knit, boiled wool or any other woven wool fabrics that are not very sheer. wool gauze are not recommended.


Category 2 -mordanted fabrics:
(These fabrics need to be mordant by you before you come to the workshop)

1.   Silk mordanted :12 silk scarves in a variety of silk weaves, around 8x54 inches to 11x60 inches.4 x 2 yards or less - in size or quantity.

2. cellulose mordanted

  • 12 cellulose scarves, around 8x54 inches to 11x60 inches.
  • 4 x 2 yards or less - in size or quantity.
  • 1 T-shirt


2 days extension class: 

All fabrics should be mordanted in advance

  • 3-4 yards of silk
  • 3-4 yards yards of cellulose

 

3 days class:

 

Category 1 - not mordanted fabrics:

1. Silk not mordanted

  • 4 silk scarves in a variety of silk weaves, around 8x54 inches to 11x60 inches.
  • 1-2 x 2 yards or less - in size or quantity.


2. cellulose not mordanted

  • 4 cellulose scarves, around 8x54 inches to 11x60 inches.
  • 1-2 x 2 yards or less - in size or quantity.
  • 1 T-shirt


 

Category 2 -mordanted fabrics:
(This fabrics need to be mordant by you before you come to the workshop)
 

1. Silk mordanted

  • 4 silk scarves in a variety of silk weaves, around 8x54 inches to 11x60 inches.
  • 2 x 2 yards or less - in size or quantity.

2. cellulose mordanted

  • 4 cellulose scarves, around 8x54 inches to 11x60 inches.
  • 2 x 2 yards or less - in size or quantity.
  • 1 T-shirt

3. wool

  • 2 yards or less of wool such as wool jersey knit, boiled wool or any other woven wool fabrics that are not very sheer. wool gauze are not recommended.

Other Supplies

  • Students are responsible to bring selection of leaves with them everyday to the class from the first day.
  • 5 35 cm wooden dowels cut to length prior to class (this is also depend on the steamers we will work with in the class. If the pots can get longer or shorter dowels)
  • A bolt of shrink warp plastic
  • A bolt of thin plastic sheets
  • 2-4 old cotton bed sheets 
  • A cone of strong string to tie bundles
  • For marking your pieces/bundles: Tyvek (used USPS mailing envelope is fine) and safety pins (brass recommended so they don’t rust)
  • A permanent sharpie (make sure it is stable in water and does not bleed)
  • Tubing and rode - 2 flexible vinyl tubing  of 1m each and 1 rode that can go into the tubing easily.
  • *Student who wish to make very big pieces of fabrics should bring a plastic tubing in the width size of the fabric.
  • Rubber gloves
  • Scissors

  •  

Additionally for 7 days class

  • A selection of paint brushes in different sizes
  • 3 small plastic container to make a paste with the extract for painting
  • Small hair dryer
  • 1-2 bolt of paper towels

other supply for all classes:

  • -
    Mordant supply you need for mordanting at home available at Dharma, Maiwa and other supplier

1. Potassium aluminum sulphate (protein fibers - mainly silk in our case)

2. Aluminum acetate - (cellulose fibers)


The studio will supply a fresh selection of eucalyptus leaves, dyes, dye additives, propane, cooking stoves, rods and vinyl tubes, plastic sheeting, plastic wrapping, tubs, dye pots, tools, irons, ironing boards, some cloth towels, washer and dryer.

There will be a materials fee for DYES  Leaves and misc purchased class sundries.  These classes have an intensive Natural Dye List

  • 3 Day Class: $30pp
  • 5 Day Class: $100pp
  • 2 Day Extension: $40pp ( in addition to 5 day fee)

Fabrics

  • Thai Silks: www.thaisilks.com   (California) -  wide variety of silks including silk jersey- Also Exotic silks…it’s wholesale sister.
  • Dharma Trading: www.dharmatrading.com   (California)  -  silk, cotton, wool gauze (look in specialty fabrics in two weights and silk/wool blends 
  • Test Fabrics:  www.testfabrics.com  (New Jersey)  -  Click on Products, then Product Category, then #14 Fabrics.  Prices are not listed.  Email to get current prices.
  • Opulent Fibers: www.opulentfibers.com (Oregon)   - Silk and wool fabrics for eco-printing
  • Maiwa:  www.maiwa.com  (Vancouver, Canada)     -   silk and cotton yardage and scarves, and excellent mordanting and dyeing instuctions.


Mordant recipes for silk and cellulose
 

Alum Mordant for Silk (consider a cold mordant)

1.       Weigh your dry fabrics

2.       Weigh alum (potassium aluminum sulfate):  you will need 25% WOF (weight of Fabrics) of alum.

(An easy way for Americans is …………… 1 lb of fabric (16 oz)  needs 4 oz of alum.)  

3.                   Prepare your pot with enough room temperature water.  Your fabrics need to swim free in the pot so don’t fill the pot with too many pieces of fabrics.

4.                   In a separate bowl, put your alum powder and pour boiling water on it.  Stir the alum until is completely dissolved (clear) and add this solution to your mordant pot which has the room temperature water in it.

5.                   Add your pre-wetted fabrics into the pot.

6.                   Start to heat very slowly (low fire) until you reach 40C/104F and turn the heat off.

7.                   Let the fabric cool in the pot (you can even it leave it for 3 days in the pot and stir it every day)

8.                   Rinse your fabrics with water.

9.                   Dry the fabrics and store them for later use in the class.


Mordant for cellulose fibers:

1.       Prepare a pot or a plastic container with warm water about 50C/122 F

2.       In a separate bowl dissolve aluminium acetate (25% WOF) with boiling water and add it to the pot.

3.       Add the pre wetted fabrics to the pot and let them soak for 3-4 hours.  No heat needed.

4.       Don’t rinse! hang the fabrics to dry completely…better in the sun.

5.       Rinse the fabrics.

6.       Dry again and store for later use in the class.