Materials List

Linda G. Illumanardi

Everyone will need a total of 52 8"x8" squares: 26 Charmeuse & 26 Bamboo Jersey ;

This, of course, will depend on the width of your bolt, which can come in 35"-108"! Most bolts are either 45" or 60". There's no "easy" way to do that, unfortunately, so we have settled with cutting (or tearing) 20 pieces from 1 yard of 45", or 28 pieces from a yard of 60". (and no, they will not be exactly 8"x8", but they will be consistent, and still look nice & be functional!)

(I have found a decent charmeuse through at $14.99/yard; it is 18 mm/"mommes." There is lightweight bamboo jersey through

**In addition, we will be exploring on Day 4 with dye blankets, so please allow an extra yard of each fabric (you can get five, 9"x36" nice strips off a yard with 45" width).

The Easy Process:

HALF of your Charmeuse and HALF of your Bamboo will be premordanted in Titanium Oxalate (TO); The other half will be premordanted in Aluminum Acetate (AA). CUT THEM AFTER MORDANTING!

I take the tiny brass safety pins and put one on the corner of the fabric to be mordanted in TO. Then I always know Brass Pin = TO. (and yes, each "square" will have a brass safety pin in the corner). It's the only way I have found to stay organized and methodical.

1. ALWAYS Hot water wash your silk. I often use vinegar with my silk and it's great; however, after washing your BAMBOO fabric, it must be SCOURED with soda ash (there's a ton of factory additives that comes out of bamboo, similar to cotton). Scour until the water comes clean (it takes me two baths).

2. Take half the bamboo fabric after scouring and rinse, then make up a hot water bath of Calcium Carbonate (I use 28 grams Calcium to 4 liters HOT water; approx 4 gr=1 teaspoon), and soak overnight. rinse and hang dry the next day. THIS IS TO FIX YOUR AA (NOT necessary for the TO).

3. NOW we are ready to MORDANT!

All fabric is now clean, dry, and ready to GO!


Weigh half of your Charmeuse and half of your Bamboo on your scale in grams. Multiply 5% by WOF

(example: 562 grams x 5%=28 grams TO) And, yes, I do weigh and mordant both fabrics together.

Fill your plastic tub with HOT water (my tap water is VERY HOT..100+F, so it works fine), add and dissolve TO, wet fabric, and immerse into tub. Make sure the fabric is marked by your little brass safety pin!


Same process as above, only 10% WOF with the AA. (NO safety pin for AA)

I let mine soak 2-3 days in the tubs, stirring throughout the day when I remember it!

Upon completion, wring out fabric, hang to dry, and rinse in cold water wash (I use my washer on gentle cycle)

CUT/TEAR your "squares" and notate each one mordanted in TO with your little brass pin.


13 Bamboo mordanted in AA

13 Bamboo mordanted in TO

13 Charmeuse mordanted in AA

13 Bamboo mordanted in AA

DONE!!!!!!!!!! CELEBRATE!!!


THIRD FABRIC: Please purchase 2-3 yards white cotton flannel (Joann's had it on sale last week for $2.99/yard). Wash it in HOT water & soda ash (4 tsp/per pound), and dry. These are your transfer blankets.

Black Sharpie (ideally the one with the fine point on one end, ultra fine on the opposite end)


Notebook/writing utensil

If, at any time, you have questions, text or call me at (626)319-5434 or email

(NOTE: I am purchasing mordants through Theyarntree via Etsy)